A city of vast, noble perspectives and winding, hidden streets, Paris remains a combination of the pompous and the intimate. Whether you've come looking for sheer physical beauty, cultural and artistic diversions, world-famous dining and shopping, history, or simply local color, you will find it here in abundance.

The French capital is also a practical city for visitors: It is relatively small as capitals go, with many of its major sights and museums within walking distance of one another. In fact, the best way to get to know Paris is on foot, although public transportation -- particularly the métro subway system -- is excellent. Buy a Plan de Paris booklet: a city map-guide with a street-name index that also shows metro stations. Note that all métro stations have a detailed neighborhood map just inside the entrance.

Paris owes both its development and much of its visual appeal to the Seine River, which weaves through its heart. Each bank of the Seine has its own personality; the Rive Droite (Right Bank), with its spacious boulevards and formal buildings, generally has a more sober and genteel feeling than the more carefree and bohemian Rive Gauche (Left Bank) to the south. The historical and geographical heart of the city is Notre-Dame Cathedral on the Ile de la Cité, the larger of the Seine's two islands (the other is the Ile St-Louis).

   

ARRIVING & DEPARTING By Air ( book securely online ... HERE...  )  Paris's major airports are Charles de Gaulle (26 km (16 mi) northeast of Paris, tel. 33/1-48-62-12-12), which is also known as Roissy, and Orly (16 km (10 mi) south of Paris, tel. 33-1/4975-1515). It's easy to get to the city center from both. Flying time to Paris is 7 hours from New York, 9 1/2 hours from Chicago, and 11 hours from Los Angeles. Flying time from the United Kingdom to Paris is 1 1/2 hours. CARRIERS Air France (tel. 800/237-2747 in the United States; 08-02-80-28-02 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the United States; 01-69-32-73-07 in France) to Charles de Gaulle, Orly. Continental (tel. 800/231-0856 in the United States; 01-42-99-09-09 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. Delta (tel. 800/241-4141 in the United States; 01-47-68-92-92 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525 in the United States; 01-42-66-90-00 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. TWA (tel. 800/892-4141 in the United States; 08-01-89-28-92 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. United (tel. 800/538-2929 in the United States; 08-01-72-72-72 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322 in the United States; 01-49-10-29-00 in France) to Charles de Gaulle. Tower Air (tel. 800/348-6937) is a charter carrier. From the United Kingdom Air France (tel. 020/8742-6600 in the United Kingdom; 08-02-80-28-02 in France). British Airways (tel. 0345/222-111 in the United Kingdom; 08-02-80-29-02 in France). British Midland (tel. 020/8754-7321 or 0345/554-554 in the United Kingdom; 01-48-62-55-65 in France). Air U.K. (tel. 0345/666-777 in the United Kingdom; 01-44-56-18-08 in France). BETWEEN THE AIRPORTS AND TOWN From Charles de Gaulle/Roissy From the Charles de Gaulle airport, the least expensive way to get into Paris is on the RER-B line, the suburban express train, which leaves from beneath Terminal 2 (look for signs for the RER in the airport terminal; you may have to catch the free bus to get to the RER station, which is only a short ride away). Trains to central Paris (Les Halles, St-Michel, Luxembourg) depart every 15 minutes. The fare (including métro connection) is 45 francs, and journey time is about 35 minutes. Note that rush hour traffic can make the trip slow. Another way to get into Paris is to take the Air France bus service between Charles de Gaulle airport and the city (you needn't have flown Air France to use this service). Buses run every 15 minutes between the airport and Montparnasse, as well as between the airport and the Arc de Triomphe, with a stop at the Air France air terminal at Porte Maillot. The fare is 55 francs, and journey time is about 40 minutes. The Roissybus, operated by the Paris Transit Authority, runs between Charles de Gaulle and the Opéra every 15 minutes; the cost is 40 francs. Note that rush-hour traffic can make the trip slow. At the airport, taxis are readily available. Journey time is around 30 minutes, depending on the traffic, and the fare is between 150 and 250 francs. Ask what the fare will be before getting in the taxi. For the same price as a taxi for two or more people, Paris Airports Service will meet you on arrival in a private car and drive you to your destination. From Orly From the Orly airport, the most economical way to get into Paris is to take the RER-C train line; catch the free shuttle bus from the terminal to the train station. Trains to Paris leave every 15 minutes. The fare is 30 francs, and journey time is about 35 minutes. Another option is to take the monorail service, Orlyval, which runs between the Antony RER-B station and Orly airport every 7 minutes. The fare to downtown Paris is 57 francs. You can also take Air France buses from Orly to Les Invalides on the Left Bank; these run every 12 minutes (you need not have flown on Air France to use this service). The fare is 45 francs, and journey time is between 30 and 45 minutes, depending on traffic. The Paris Transit Authority's Orlybus leaves every 15 minutes for the Denfert-Rochereau métro station; the cost is 30 francs. In light traffic, taxis take around 25 minutes from Orly to downtown Paris; the fare will be about 160 francs. Be sure to ask about the fare before getting in the taxi. With advance reservations, Paris Airports Service (tel. 01-49-62-78-78) will pick you up at Orly and drive you directly to your destination. Reservations must be made two to three days in advance, MasterCard and Visa are accepted, and the operators speak English.   By Boat & Ferry A number of different ferry and hovercraft routes connect the United Kingdom and France. Driving distances from the French ports to Paris are as follows: from Calais, 290 km (180 mi); from Boulogne, 243 km (151 mi); from Dieppe, 193 km (120 mi); from Dunkerque, 257 km (160 mi). The fastest routes to Paris from each port are via N43, A26, and A1 from Calais and the Channel Tunnel; via N1 from Boulogne; via N15 from Le Havre; via D915 and N1 from Dieppe; and via A25 and A1 from Dunkerque. DOVER TO CALAIS Hoverspeed (International Hoverport, Marine Parade, Dover CT17 9TG, tel. 01304/240241) operates up to 15 crossings a day by hovercraft and catamaran. The crossings take 35 minutes (hovercraft) or 55 minutes (catamaran). P&O European Ferries (Channel House, Channel View Rd., Dover, Kent CT17 9TJ, tel. 020/8575-8555) has up to 25 sailings a day; the crossing takes about 75 minutes. Sealink (Charter House, Park St., Ashford, Kent TN24 8EX, tel. 01233/646801) operates up to 25 sailings a day; the crossing takes about 90 minutes. FOLKESTONE TO BOULOGNE Hoverspeed is the sole operator on this route, with ten 35-minute crossings a day. NEWHAVEN TO DIEPPE Sealink has as many as four sailings a day, and the crossing takes four hours. PORTSMOUTH TO LE HAVRE P&O European Ferries has up to three sailings a day, and the crossing takes 5 1/2 hours by day, 7 1/2 by night. RAMSGATE TO DUNKERQUE Sally Line (Argyle Centre, York St., Ramsgate, Kent CT11 9DS, tel. 01843/595522) has up to six 2 1/2-hour crossings a day. FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM It's possible to take a bus (via ferry) to Paris from the United Kingdom. Eurolines operates a nightly service from London's Victoria Coach Station, via the Dover-Calais ferry, to Paris. Departures are at 9 AM, arriving at 6 PM; noon, arriving at 9 PM; and 10 PM, arriving at 7 AM. Fares are £60 round-trip (under-25 youth pass £56), £35 one-way. Hoverspeed offers up to four daily departures from Victoria Coach Station. Fares are £60 round-trip, £38 one-way. Reservations can be made in person at any National Express office or at the Coach Travel Centre. For information, contact Coach Travel Centre (13 Regent St., London SW1 4LR, tel. 020/7824-8657 to make credit-card reservations), Eurolines (52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU, tel. 020/7730-0202), and Hoverspeed (International Hoverport, Marine Parade, Dover CT17 9TG, tel. 01304/240241). By Train The SNCF, France's rail system, is fast, punctual, comfortable, and comprehensive. There are various options: local trains, overnight trains with sleeping accomodations, and the high-speed TGV, or "Trains ΰ Grande Vitesse" (averaging 255 kph/160 mph on the Lyon/southeast line, and 300 kph/190 mph on the Lille and Bordeaux/southwest lines). The TGV, the fastest way to get around the country, operate between Paris and Lille/Calais; Paris and Lyon/Switzerland/the Riviera; Paris and Angers/Nantes; Paris and Tours/Poitiers/Bordeaux; Paris and Brussels; and Paris and Amsterdam. As with other main-line trains, a small supplement may be assessed at peak hours. You must always make a seat reservations for the TGV--easily obtained at the ticket window or from a machine. Seat reservations are reassuring but seldom necessary on other main-line French trains, except at certain busy holiday times. Paris has six international rail stations: Gare du Nord (northern France, northern Europe, and England via Calais or Boulogne); Gare St-Lazare (Normandy, England via Dieppe); Gare de l'Est (Strasbourg, Luxembourg, Basle, and central Europe); Gare de Lyon (Lyon, Marseille, the Riviera, Geneva, Italy); and Gare d'Austerlitz (Loire Valley, southwest France, Spain). Note that Gare Montparnasse has taken over as the main terminus for trains bound for southwest France since the introduction of the new TGV-Atlantique service. You can call for train information from any station or reserve tickets in any Paris station, irrespective of destination. If you know what station you'll depart from, you can get a free schedule there (while supplies last), or you can access the new multilingual computerized schedule information network at any Paris station. You can also make reservations and buy you ticket while at the computer. Go to the Grandes Lignes counter for travel within France and to the Billets Internationaux desk if you're heading out of the country. Note that calling the SNCF's 08 number (see below) will cost you money (you're charged per minute), so it's better just to go to the nearest station and make reservations in person. For schedule information, contact SNCF (88 rue St-Lazare, 75009 Paris, tel. 08-36-35-35-35). DISCOUNT PASSES France is one of 17 countries in which you can use EurailPasses,( book securely online ... HERE...  ) ; which provide unlimited first-class rail travel, in all of the participating countries, for the duration of the pass. If you plan to rack up the miles, get a standard pass. These are available for 15 days ($522), 21 days ($678), one month ($838), two months ($1,148), and three months ($1,468). If your plans call for only limited train travel, look into a Europass, which costs less money than a EurailPass. Unlike EurailPasses, however, you get a limited number of travel days, in a limited number of countries, during a specified time period. For example, a two-month Europass ($316) allows between 5 and 15 days of rail travel, but costs $200 less than the least expensive EurailPass. Keep in mind, however, that the Europass is good only in France, Germany, Italy, Spain, and Switzerland, and the number of countries you can visit is further limited by the type of pass you buy. In addition to standard EurailPasses, ask about special rail-pass plans. Among these are the Eurail Youthpass (for those under age 26), the Eurail Saverpass (which gives a discount for two or more people traveling together), a Eurail Flexipass (which allows a certain number of travel days within a set period), the Euraildrive Pass and the Europass Drive (train and rental car). Whichever of the above you choose, remember that you must purchase your pass at home before leaving for Europe. Don't assume that your rail pass guarantees you a seat on the train you wish to ride. You need to book seats ahead even if you are using a rail pass; seat reservations are required on high-speed trains, and are a good idea on trains that may be crowded-particularly in summer on popular routes. You will also need a reservation for sleeping accommodations. Eurail- and Europasses are available through travel agents and a few authorized organizations, including CIT Tours Corp. (15 W. 44th St., 10th floor, New York, NY 10036, tel. 800/248-7245 for rail; 800/248-8687for tours and hotels), DER Travel Services (9501 W. Devon Ave., Rosemont, IL 60018, tel. 800/782-2424), and Rail Europe (226-230 Westchester Ave., White Plains, NY 10604, tel. 800/438-7245, fax 800/432-1329; 2087 Dundas E., Suite 105, Mississauga, Ontario L4X 1M2, tel. 905/602-4195). FRENCH RAIL PASSES SNCF offers a number of discount rail passes available only for purchase in France. When traveling together, two people (who don't have to be a couple) can save money with the Prix Dιcouverte ΰ Deux. You'll get a 25% discount during "pιriodes bleus" (blue periods; weekdays and not on or near any holidays). Note that you have to be with the person you said you would be traveling with. You can get a reduced fare if you are a senior citizen (over 60) with the Carte Vermeil. There are two options: the first, the Carte Vermeil Quatre Temps, costs 143F and gives you a reduction on 4 trips: 50% off in the blue periods and 20% off during the more crowded "pιriodes blanches" (white periods; weekends or on or around holidays). The second, the Carte Vermeil Plein Temps, costs 279F and allows you, for one year, an unlimited number of 30% reductions on trips within France and a 30% discount on trips outside of France. With the Carte Kiwi, children under 16 can get 50% off four trips for 285 francs, or for a full year of travel for 444 francs. If you purchase an individual ticket from SNCF in France and you're under 26, you will automatically get a 25% reduction (a valid ID, such as an ISIC card or your passport, is necessary). If you're going to be using the train quite a bit during your stay in France and if you're under 26, consider buying the Carte 12-25 (270F), which offers unlimited 50% reductions for one year (provided that there's space available at that price, otherwise you'll just get the standard 25% discount). If you don't benefit from any of these reductions and if you plan on traveling at least 1,000 km (620 mi) roundtrip (including several stops), look into purchasing a Billet Sιjour. This ticket gives you a 25% reduction if you stay over a Sunday and if you travel only during blue periods. It may be a major organizational feat, but you can save a lot of cash this way. FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM Short of flying, the "Chunnel" is the fastest way to cross the English Channel: 3 hours from London's central Waterloo Station to Paris's central Gare du Nord, 35 minutes from Folkestone to Calais, and 60 minutes from motorway to motorway. Round-trip tickets range from 3,400 francs for first class to 690 francs for second class. British Rail also has four daily departures from London's Victoria Station, all linking with the Dover-Calais/Boulogne ferry services through to Paris. There is also an overnight service on the Newhaven-Dieppe ferry. Journey time is about eight hours. Credit-card bookings are accepted by phone or in person at a British Rail Travel Centre. For car transportation information, contact Le Shuttle (tel. 0990/353-535 in the United Kingdom). For information on passenger service in France, call Eurostar (tel. 08-36-35-35-39). In the United Kingdom, contact Eurostar (tel. 0345/881-881) or InterCity Europe (Victoria Station, London, tel. 020/7834-2345; 0990/848-848 for credit-card bookings). In the United States, BritRail Travel (tel. 800/677-8585) and Rail Europe (tel. 800/942-4866) can provide details. For schedule information, call British Rail (tel. 020/7834-2345). Back to Top of Page BUSINESS HOURS During weekdays, banks are open, generally from 9:30 AM to 4:30 or 5 PM. Most museums close one day a week--usually either Monday or Tuesday--and on national holidays. Generally, museums are open from 10 AM to 5 or 6 PM. A few close for lunch (noon-2) and are open Sunday only in the afternoon. Many of the large museums have one "nocturne" (nighttime) opening per week when they are open until 9:30 or 10 PM. Generally, large shops are open from 9:30 or 10 AM to 6 or 7 PM and don't close at lunchtime. Many large department stores stay open until 10 PM on Wednesday or Thursday. Smaller shops and many supermarkets often open earlier (8 AM) but take a lengthy lunch break (1-3 PM) and generally close around 8 PM; small food shops are often open Sunday mornings, 9 AM-1 PM. Some corner grocery stores stay open until about 10 PM. Most shops close all day Sunday, except some around the Marais, the Bastille, the Latin Quarter, and the Ile de la Cité. HOLIDAYS With 11 national holidays ("jours feriés") and five weeks of paid vacation, the French have their share of repose. In May, there is a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks, and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. But some exchange booths in tourist areas, small grocery stores, restaurants, cafés, and bakeries usually remain open. Bastille Day (July 14) is observed in true French form. Celebrations begin on the evening of the 13th and finish the next day with an annual military parade down the Champs-Élysées and a fireworks display, usually at Trocadéro. January 1 (New Year's Day); April 15 (Easter Monday); May 1 (Labor Day); May 8 (VE Day); May 13 (Ascension); May 23 (Pentecost Monday); July 14 (Bastille Day); August 15 (Assumption); November 1 (All Saints); November 11 (Armistice); December 25 (Christmas). Back to Top of Page CUSTOMS & DUTIES ARRIVING IN FRANCE If you're coming from outside the European Union (EU), you may import duty free: (1) 200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco (twice that if you live outside Europe); (2) 2 liters of wine and, in addition, (a) 1 liter of alcohol over 22% volume (most spirits) or (b) 2 liters of alcohol under 22% volume (fortified or sparkling wine) or (c) 2 more liters of table wine; (3) 50 milliliters of perfume and 250 milliliters of toilet water; (4) 200 grams of coffee, 100 grams of tea; and (5) other goods to the value of 300 francs (100 francs for those under 15). If you're arriving from an EU country, you may be required to declare all goods and prove that anything over the standard limit is for personal consumption. But there is no limit or customs tariff imposed on goods carried within the EU. Any amount of French or foreign currency may be brought into France, but foreigncurrencies converted into francs may be reconverted into a foreign currency only up to the equivalent of 5,000 francs.     Back to Top of Page EMERGENCIES Ambulance (tel. 15 or tel. 01-45-67-50-50). Fire Department (tel. 18); locals tend to call the fire department for any type of emergency as it has fully trained medical teams and is very efficient. Police (tel. 17); locals tend to call the police only if something gets stolen. HOSPITAL EMERGENCY ROOMS The American Hospital (63 bd. Victor Hugo, Neuilly, tel. 01-46-41-25-25) has a 24-hour emergency service. The Hertford British Hospital (3 rue Barbθs, Levallois-Perret, tel. 01-46-39-22-22) also offers a 24-hour service. DOCTORS AND DENTISTS The following numbers are for medical or dental emergencies, when you want a doctor or dentist to make a house call. Doctors (tel. 01-47-07-77-77). Dentists (tel.01-43-37-51-00). 24-HOUR PHARMACIES Dhιry (Galerie des Champs, 84 av. des Champs-Ιlysιes, 8e, tel. 01-45-62-02-41) is open 24 hours. Pharmacie des Arts (106 bd. Montparnasse, 14e) is open daily until midnight. Pharmacie Matignon (rue Jean Mermoz, at the Rond-Point de Champs-Ιlysιes, 8e) is open daily until 2 AM. EMBASSIES Australia 4 rue Jean-Rey, Paris, 15e, tel. 01-40-59-33-00. Mιtro: Bir Hakeim. Open weekdays 9:15-12:15. Canada 35 av. Montaigne, Paris, 8e, tel. 01-44-43-29-00. Mιtro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Open weekdays 8:30-11. New Zealand 7 ter rue Lιonardo da Vinci, Paris, 16e, tel. 01-45-00-24-11. Mιtro: Victor Hugo. Open weekdays 9-1. United Kingdom 35 rue du Faubourg-St-Honorι, Paris, 8e, tel. 01-44-51-31-00. Mιtro: Madeleine. Openweekdays 9:30-12:30 and 2:30-5. United States 2 rue St-Florentin, Paris, 1er, tel. 01-43-12-22-22 in English; 01-43-12-23-47 in emergencies. Mιtro: Concorde. Open weekdays 9-3. Back to Top of Page GETTING AROUND By Bus Although it's slower than the métro, traveling by bus is a convenient and scenic way to get around the city. Paris buses are green and white; route number and destination are marked in front and along the sides. Most routes operate from 7 AM to 8:30 PM; some continue to midnight. Ten Noctambus, or night buses, operate hourly (1:30-5:30 AM) between Châtelet and various nearby suburbs; they can be stopped by hailing them at any point on their route. The brown bus shelters, topped by red and yellow circular signs, contain timetables and route maps. Paris-Visite/Mobilis passes are valid, otherwise it costs 30 francs. Regular buses accept métro tickets, or you can buy a single ticket on board. If you have individual tickets, you should be prepared to punch one or more tickets in the red and gray machines on board the bus. You need to show (but not punch) weekly, monthly, and Paris-Visite/Mobilis tickets to the driver. The Balabus, a public bus that runs between May and September, gives an interesting tour around the major sights. Terminus: La Défense or Gare de Lyon. For more information, contact the bus companies: Coach Travel Centre (13 Regent St., London SW1 4LR, tel. 020/7824-8657 to make credit-card reservations), Eurolines (52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU, tel. 020/7730-0202), or Hoverspeed (International Hoverport, Marine Parade, Dover CT17 9TG, tel. 01304/240241). By Car Driving in Paris is best avoided, and parking is very difficult to find. Meters and ticket machines (pay and display) are common: make sure you have a supply of 1-, 2-, 5-, and 10-franc coins. Note that in August, parking is free in most of Paris, but be sure to always check the signs before you park, as rules vary. Parking lots, indicated by a blue sign with a white "P" are usually underground and are generally expensive. If your car breaks down on an expressway, go to a roadside emergency telephone. If you have a breakdown anywhere else, find the nearest garage or contact the police (dial 17). CAR RENTALS Rates in Paris begin at approximately $70 a day and $200 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, manual transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 20.6% or, if you pick it up at the airport, the airport tax. To save money, make reservations before you go; you can generally get a much better deal. Your best bet is to rent a car only when you want to take excursions out of the city. At Home Alamo (tel. 800/522-9696; 0800/272-2000 in the United Kingdom). Avis (tel. 800/331-1084; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 008/225-533 in Australia). Budget (tel. 800/527-0700; 0800/181181 in the United Kingdom). Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; 0990/565656 in the United Kingdom, where it is known as Eurodollar). Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 0345/555888 in the United Kingdom; 03/9222-2523 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand). National InterRent (tel. 800/227-3876; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom, where it is known as Europcar InterRent). REQUIREMENTS In France your own driver's license is acceptable. An International Driver's Permit is not necessary unless you are planning on a long-term stay; you can get one from the American or Canadian automobile association, and, in the United Kingdom, from the Automobile Association or Royal Automobile Club. Auto Clubs In the United States, American Automobile Association (tel. 800/564-6222). In the United Kingdom, Automobile Association (tel. 0990/500600) or Royal Automobile Club (tel. 0990/722722 for membership inquiries, 0345/121345 for insurance). GASOLINE Gas is expensive and prices vary enormously; anything from 5.80 to 6.80 francs per liter. ROAD CONDITIONS France's roads are classified into five types, numbered and prefixed A, N, D, C, or V. Roads marked A (Autoroutes) are expressways. There are excellent links between Paris and most French cities. When trying to get around Ile-de-France, it is often difficult to avoid Paris--just try to steer clear of the rush hours (7-9:30 AM and 4:30-7:30 PM). A "péage" (toll) must be paid on most expressways: the rate varies but can be steep. The N (Route Nationale) roads--which are sometimes divided highways--and D (Route Départementale) roads are usually wide and fast, and driving along them can be a real pleasure. Don't be daunted by smaller (C and V) roads, either. To leave Paris by car, figure out which of the "portes" ("gates") correspond to the direction you are going in France. Directions are indicated by major cities, and the major highways connect to Paris at these points. For instance, heading north, look for Porte de la Chapelle (direction Lille and Charles/ de Gaulle Airport); east, for Porte de Bagnolet (direction Metz and Nancy); south, for Porte d'Orléans (direction Lyon and Bordeaux); and west, for Porte d'Auteuil (direction Rouen and Chartres) or Porte de St-Cloud. RULES OF THE ROAD In France, drive on the right and yield to drivers coming from streets to the right. However, this rule does not necessarily apply at traffic circles, where you should watch out for just about everyone. Speed limits are 130 kph (80 mph) on expressways, 110 kph (70 mph) on divided highways, 90 kph (55 mph) on other roads, 50 kph (30 mph) in towns. By Métro Métro stations are recognizable either by a large yellow M within a circle or by the distinctive curly green Art Nouveau railings and archway bearing the full title (Métropolitain). Taking the métro is the most efficient way to get around Paris. Sixteen métro lines crisscross Paris and the suburbs, and you are seldom more than 500 yards from the nearest station. It is essential to know the name of the last station on the line you take, as this name appears on all signs. A connection (you can make as many as you like on one ticket) is called a "correspondance." At junction stations, illuminated orange signs bearing the name of the line terminus appear over the correct corridors for each correspondance. Illuminated blue signs marked "sortie" indicate the station exit. Note that tickets are only valid inside the gates or "limites." Métro service starts at 5:30 AM and continues until 1 AM, when the last train on each line reaches its terminus. Some lines and stations in the less salubrious parts of Paris are a bit risky at night, in particular Lines 2 and 13. But in general, the métro is relatively safe throughout, providing you don't walk around with your wallet hanging out of your back pocket or (especially women) travel alone late at night. The métro network connects at several points in Paris with the RER (Réseau Express Régional, or the Regional Express Network), the commuter trains that go from the city center to the suburbs. RER trains that cross Paris on their way from suburb to suburb can be great time-savers because they make few stops in the city. All métro tickets and passes are valid not only for the métro, but also for all RER and bus travel within Paris. Métro tickets cost 8 francs each; a "carnet" (10 tickets for 52 francs) is a better value. The best deal is the weekly ("coupon jaune") or monthly ("carte orange") ticket, sold according to zone. Zones 1 and 2 cover the entire métro network; tickets cost 80 francs a week or 271 francs a month. If you plan to take suburban trains to visit places in Ile-de-France, consider a four-zone (Versailles, St-Germain-en-Laye; 134 francs a week) or six-zone (Rambouillet, Fontainebleau; 184 francs a week) ticket. For these weekly/monthly tickets, you will need a pass (available from rail and major métro stations) and a passport-size photograph (many stations have photo booths). The advantage of one-day (Mobilis) and three- and five-day (Paris Visite) unlimited travel tickets for the métro, bus, and RER is that, unlike the coupon jaune, which is good from Monday morning to Sunday evening, Mobilis and Paris Visite passes are valid starting any day of the week and also give you discounts on a limited number of museums and tourist attractions. The price is 40 francs (one-day), 80 francs (two-day), 120 francs (three-day), and 175 francs (five-day) for Paris only; 170, 230, and 315 francs; Suburbs such as Versailles and St-Germain-en-Laye cost 175 (one-day). Disneyland Paris costs 155, 225, 280, and 357 francs respectively for a one- to four-day pass. Access to métro and RER platforms is through an automated ticket barrier. Slide your ticket in and pick it up as it pops out. Be certain to keep your ticket during your journey; you'll need it to leave the RER system and in case you run into any green-clad ticket inspectors who can impose a big fine. By Taxi Daytime rates (7 AM-7 PM) within Paris are 3.53 francs per kilometer, and nighttime rates are around 5.83 francs. There is a basic hire charge of 13 francs for all rides, and a 6-franc supplement per piece of luggage. Rates outside the city limits are about 40% higher. Waiting time is charged at 130 francs per hour. You are best off asking your hotel or restaurant to call for a taxi or going to the nearest taxi station (you can find one every couple of blocks); cabs with their signs lit can be hailed but are annoyingly difficult to spot (and they are not all one, uniform color). Note that taxis seldom take more than three people at a time. Tip the driver about 10%. Contact the Préfecture de Police for complaints : 01 45 31 14 80 Back to Top of Page LANGUAGE The French may appear prickly at first to English-speaking visitors. But it usually helps if you make an effort to speak a little French. So even if your own French is terrible, try to master a few words. A simple, friendly "bonjour" (hello) will do, as will asking if the person you are greeting speaks English ("Parlez-vous anglais?"). Be patient, and speak English slowly. Back to Top of Page MAIL SENDING MAIL HOME Airmail letters to the United States and Canada cost 4.40 francs for 20 grams, 8.20 francs for 40 grams, and 13 francs for 60 grams. Letters to the United Kingdom cost 3 francs for up to 20 grams, as they do within France. Postcards cost 3 francs within France and EU countries, and 4.40 francs to the United States and Canada. Stamps can be bought in post offices and cafés sporting a red "Tabac" sign. Post offices, or PTT, are scattered throughout every arrondissement and are recognizable by a yellow "La Poste" sign. They are usually open weekdays 8 AM-7 PM, Saturday 8 AM-noon. The main office (52 rue du Louvre, 1er) is open 24 hours. The Champs-Élysées office (10 rue Balzar, 8e) is open until 7 PM. RECEIVING MAIL If you're uncertain where you'll be staying, have mail sent to American Express (if you're a card member) or to Poste Restante at any post office. Back to Top of Page MONEY ATMS ATMs are fairly common in Paris and are one of the easiest ways to get francs. In addition, banks usually offer excellent, wholesale exchange rates through ATMs.You may, however, have to look around for Cirrus and Plus locations. It's a good idea to get a list of locations from your bank before you go. Note, too, that you may have luck with more ATMs if you are using a credit card or a debit card that is also a Visa or MasterCard, rather than just your bank card. To get cash at ATMs in Paris, your PIN must be four digits long. Note, too, that you may be charged by your bank for using ATMs overseas; inquire at your bank about charges. ATM Locations Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787). Plus (tel. 800/843-7587 for locations in the United States and Canada, or visit your local bank). COSTS Like many capital cities, Paris is expensive. But if you avoid the obvious tourist traps, you can find affordable places to eat and shop. Prices tend to reflect the standing of an area in the eyes of Parisians; much sought-after residential arrondissements such as the 7e, 16e, and 17e--of limited tourist interest--are far more expensive than the student-oriented, much-visited Latin Quarter. The tourist area where value for money is most difficult to find is the 8e arrondissement, on and around the Champs-Élysées. Places where you can generally be certain to shop, eat, and stay without overpaying include the streets surrounding Montmartre (not the Butte, or hilltop, itself); the St-Michel/Sorbonne area on the Left Bank; the mazelike streets around Les Halles and the Marais in central Paris; in Montparnasse, south of the boulevard; and the Bastille, Répulique, and Belleville areas and eastern Paris. Note that in cafés, bars, and some restaurants, it is less expensive to eat or drink standing at the counter than it is to sit at a table. Two prices are listed, "au comptoir" (at the counter) and "à salle" (at a table). A cup of coffee, standing at a bar, costs from 7 francs; if you sit, it will cost from 10-40 francs. A glass of beer costs from 10 francs standing and from 15-40 francs sitting; a soft drink costs between 10 francs and 20 francs. A ham sandwich will cost between 17 francs and 30 francs. Expect to pay 35-40 francs for a short taxi ride. CREDIT & DEBIT CARDS & Many restaurants and stores take both credit cards and debit cards, though there is sometimes a 100-franc minimum. Reporting Lost Cards American Express (tel. 910/668-5309, call collect). Diner's Club (tel. 303/799-1504, call collect). MasterCard (tel. 0800/90-1387). Visa (tel. 0800/90-1179). CURRENCY The units of currency in France are the franc (fr) and the centime. Bills are in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 francs. Coins are 20, 10, 5, 2, and 1 francs and 50, 20, 10, and 5 centimes. Note that the old 10-franc coin has been changed and replaced by a smaller, two-tone version. The Euro, or single European currency, was launched on January 1, 1999. In the beginning, it will function as a sort of alternative currency, and francs won't disappear for another three years. EXCHANGING MONEY In general, the Banque de France has the best rates. Other banks, however, don't necessarily offer such good rates. Also look for exchange booths that clearly state "No Commission" and compare rates between booths and banks. Exchange booths in airports, train stations, hotels, and stores generally offer the worst rates, though you may find their hours more convenient. Although fees charged for ATM transactions may be higher abroad than at home (you may want to check on this before leaving), ATM exchange rates are often excellent, because they are based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. ATMs are also convenient (you get francs right out of the machine). Using a debit card (with a Visa or MasterCard symbol on it) makes it easier to find ATMs that you can use (see above). If you are concerned that you may not be able to use your bank or debit card at the airport or train station when you first arrive, or you want to avoid lines at airport or train station exchange booths, consider getting a bit of local currency before you leave home. Exchange Services Chase Currency To Go (tel. 800/935-9935; 935-9935 in NY, NJ, and CT). International Currency Express (tel. 888/842-0880 on the East Coast; 888/278-6628 on the West Coast). Thomas Cook Currency Services (tel. 800/287-7362 for telephone orders and retail locations). TRAVELER'S CHECKS Do you need traveler's checks? Although it's easiest these days to get cash from ATMs (see above), it makes sense to bring some money in traveler's checks, just in case. Traveler's checks in dollars or your country's currency can easily be exchanged at banks or exchange booths (remember to bring your passport). Lost or stolen checks can usually be replaced within 24 hours. To ensure a speedy refund, buy your own traveler's checks--don't let someone else pay for them: irregularities like this can cause delays. The person who bought the checks should make the call to request a refund. TAXES All taxes must be included in affixed prices in France. Prices in restaurants and hotel prices must by law include taxes and service charges: if these appear as additional items on your bill, you should complain. VAT (value added tax, known in France as TVA), at a standard rate of 20.6% (33% for luxury goods), is included in the price of many goods, but foreigners are often entitled to a refund. Back to Top of Page PACKING Although you'll usually have no trouble finding a baggage cart at the airport, luggage restrictions on international flights are tight and baggage carts at railroad stations are not always available. So pack light. Over the years, casual dress has become more acceptable in Paris, although the city is still the world's fashion capital and people dress accordingly. You don't have to wear a jacket and tie at most restaurants (unless specified), and jeans are de rigueur at the new Bastille Opéra (a jeans-and-sneakers-and-T-shirt outfit, however, may raise eyebrows when going out). Shorts have become a popular item with the younger crowd in Paris. And more and more people are wearing sneakers, though you will still stand out as a tourist if you leave them on in the evening. It can be hot in Paris in summer and cold in winter. Since it rains all year round, bring a raincoat and umbrella. Wear sturdy walking shoes for sightseeing: Paris is full of cobblestone streets, and many historic buildings are surrounded by gravel paths. Keep in mind that you may be running in and out of warm, crowded métros. To protect yourself against purse snatchers and pickpockets, take a handbag with long straps that you can sling across your body, bandolier-style, with a zippered compartment for your money and some form of identification--French law requires that you carry identification at all times. It may be best, however, to leave your passport in your hotel safe, and just carry your license or a copy of your passport. ELECTRICITY To use your U.S.-purchased electric-powered equipment, bring a converter and adapter. The electrical current in France is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs. If your appliances are dual-voltage, you'll need only an adapter. Don't use 110-volt outlets, marked "For Shavers Only," for high-wattage appliances such as blow-dryers. Most laptops operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts and so require only an adapter. Back to Top of Page PASSPORTS & VISAS ENTERING FRANCE When traveling in France, you generally must carry a passport. All citizens of Australia, Canada, New Zealand, the United States, and the United Kingdom, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days. It's recommended that you make two photocopies of the data page (one for someone at home and another for you, carried separately from your passport). If you lose your passport, promptly call the nearest embassy or consulate and the local police. PASSPORT OFFICES Australian Passport Office (tel. 13/1232). Canadian Passport Office (tel. 819/994-3500 or 800/567-6868). New Zealand Passport Office (tel. 04/494-0700 for information on how to apply; 0800/727-776 for information on applications already submitted). United Kingdom Passport Office, London (tel. 0990/21010), for fees and documentation requirements and to request an emergency passport. United States National Passport Information Center (tel. 900/225-5674; calls are charged at 35 cents per minute for automated service, $1.05 per minute for operator service). EMBASSIES Australia 4 rue Jean-Rey, Paris, 15e, tel. 01-40-59-33-00. Métro: Bir Hakeim. Open weekdays 9:15-12:15. Canada 35 av. Montaigne, Paris, 8e, tel. 01-44-43-29-00. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Open weekdays 8:30-11. New Zealand 7 ter rue Léonardo da Vinci, Paris, 16e, tel. 01-45-00-24-11. Métro: Victor Hugo. Open weekdays 9-1. United Kingdom 35 rue du Faubourg-St-Honoré, Paris, 8e, tel. 01-44-51-31-00. Métro: Madeleine. Open weekdays 9:30-12:30 and 2:30-5. United States 2 rue St-Florentin, Paris, 1er, tel. 01-43-12-22-22 in English; 01-43-12-23-47 in emergencies. Métro: Concorde. Open weekdays 9-3. Back to Top of Page REST ROOMS All cafés are required by law to let the public use their bathrooms, although this doesn't necessarily mean that they will be pleasant about it (you may also have to pay a few francs to use the toilet). Bathrooms are often located downstairs. Your best bet may be fast-food chains. You can also find pay-per-use toilet units on the street. Back to Top of Page SIGHTSEEING TOURS There are many ways to see Paris on a guided tour: by bike, by boat, by bus, by private minivan, and on foot. Boat trips along the Seine run throughout the day and evening for a cost of 40 francs-100 francs. Many include lunch or dinner for an average cost of 300 francs-600 francs; wine and service are often factored into the lunch and dinner prices. Reservations for meals are usually essential and some require jacket and tie. For a two-hour orientation tour by bus, the standard price is about 150 francs. The two largest bus tour operators are Cityrama and Paris Vision; for a more intimate-albeit-expensive-tour of the city, Cityrama also runs several minibus excursions per day. Paris Bus gives tours in a London-syle double-decker bus. You can catch the bus at any of nine pickup points; tickets cost 125 francs and allow you unlimited use for two days. A copy of the timetable is available from the Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris (Paris Tourist Office, 127 av. des Champs-Élysées, tel. 01-49-52-53-54 or 01-49-52-53-56 for recorded information in English). RATP (Paris Transit Authority) also gives guide-accompanied excursions in and around Paris. Luxury minibuses (for 4 to 15 passengers) that travel around Paris and its environs for a minimum of four hours can be arranged through Paris Bus and Paris Major Limousine. A list of walking tours is available from the Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques, or check in the weekly magazines "Pariscope" and "L'Officiel des Spectacles" list walking tours under the heading "conférences"; most are in French, unless otherwise noted, and cost between 40 and 60 francs. BUS TOURS Air France (119 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, tel. 01-44-08-22-22). American Express (11 rue Scribe, 9e, tel. 01-47-77-77-07). Cityrama (4 pl. des Pyramides, 1er, tel. 01-44-55-61-00). Paris Bus (tel. 01-42-30-55-50). Paris Vision (214 rue de Rivoli, 1er, tel. 01-42-60-31-25). RATP (pl. de la Madeleine, 8e; 53 bis quai des Grands-Augustins, 6e, tel. 08-36-68-41-14), open daily 9-5. Wagons-Lits (31 rue Coloniel Pierre Avia, 15e, tel. 01-41-33-68-00). BIKE TOURS Butterfield & Robinson (70 Bond St., Toronto, Canada M5B 1X3, tel. 416/864-1354 or 800/678-1147). Paris Bike (83 rue Daguerre, 14e, tel. 01-45-38-58-58) organizes daily bike tours around Paris and its environs (Versailles, Chantilly, and Fontainebleau) for about 195 francs per person. Paris à Vélo, C'est Sympa (37 bd. Bourdon, 4e, tel. 01-48-87-60-01) runs a three-hour bike tour for 170 francs. BOAT TOURS Bateaux-Mouches (Pont de l'Alma, 8e, tel. 01-42-25-96-10) boats depart from the Pont de l'Alma (Right Bank) 10-noon, 2-7, and 8:30-10:30. Lunch is served at 1 PM and dinner at 8:30 PM. Bateaux Parisiens-Tour Eiffel (Pont d'Iéna, 7e, tel. 01-44-11-33-44) boats depart from the Pont d'Iéna (Left Bank) every half hour in summer and every hour in winter, starting at 10 AM. The last boat leaves at 9 PM (11 PM in summer). There are lunch and dinner cruises. Bat-O-Bus (tel. 01-44-11-33-44), a trip along the Seine without commentary, has the advantage of allowing you to get on and off at any one of five stops along the river, including Trocadero, Musée d'Orsay, the Louvre, Notre-Dame, and Hôtel de Ville. Take it one stop for 12 francs, or pay 65 francs for a full-day ticket. Operating from April to September only, the Bat-O-Bus departs every half hour between 10 and 6. Canauxrama (5 bis quai de la Loire, 19e; Bassin de l'Arsenal, 12e; tel. 01-42-39-15-00) organizes leisurely canal tours in flat-bottom barges along the St-Martin and Ourcq canals in East Paris. Departures from the quai de la Loire are at 9:15 and 2:45, and departures from the Bassin de l'Arsenal (opposite 50 boulevard de la Bastille) are at 9:30 and 2:30. The trip lasts about 2 1/2 hours. Reservations should be made. Paris Canal (19 quai de la Loire, 19e, tel. 01-42-40-96-97) runs three-hour trips with bilingual commentary between the Musée d'Orsay and the Parc de La Villette, between April and mid-November only. Reservations are essential. Vedettes du Pont Neuf (Ile de la Cité, 1er, tel. 01-46-33-98-38) boats depart every half hour from the Square du Vert Galant 10-noon, 1:30-6:30, and 9-10:30 from March to October. Yachts de Paris (Port de Javel, tel. 01-44-37-10-20) organizes two-hour "gourmet cruises" (for 790 francs). PERSONAL GUIDES Paris Bus (22 rue de la Prevoyance, Vincennes, tel. 01-43-65-55-55). Paris Major Limousine (6 pl. de la Madeleine, 8e, tel. 01-42-45-34-14). The price varies from 1,300 to 2,200 francs. Reservations are essential. SPECIAL-INTEREST TOURS Cityrama and Paris Vision (see Bus Tours, above) offer a variety of thematic tours ("Historic Paris," "Modern Paris," "Paris-by-Night") lasting from 2 1/2 hours to all day and costing between 150 and 300 francs. WALKING TOURS Butterfield & Robinson (see Bike Tours, above). Caisse Nationale des Monuments Historiques (Bureau des Visites/Conférences, Hôtel de Sully, 62 rue St-Antoine, 4e, tel. 44-61-20-00). Back to Top of Page TELEPHONES COUNTRY CODES The country code for France is 33. The first two digits of French numbers are a prefix determined by zone: Paris and Ile de France, 01; the northwest, 02; the northeast, 03; the southeast, 04; and the southwest, 05. Note that numbers beginning with 08 mean that it is either a toll-free call or a call that you will be charged for. DIRECTORY & OPERATOR INFORMATION To find a number in France, dial 12 for information. For international inquiries, dial 00-33 plus the country code. Another source of information is the Minitel, an on-line network similar to the Internet. You can use one--they look like small computer terminals--for free in most post offices. To access the on-line phone book, hit the "appel" (call) key, then type the name you are looking for and hit "envoi" (return). It is also useful for tracking down services: tap in "piscine" (swimming pool) under "activité" (activity), for example, and it will give you a list of all the pools in Paris. Go to other lines or pages by hitting the "suite" (next) key. Newer models will connect automatically when you hit the book-icon key. To disconnect, hit "fin" (end). INTERNATIONAL CALLS When dialing a French number from abroad, drop the initial 0 from the local area code. For instance, to call a number in Paris from the United States, dial 011 + 33 + 1 + the number minus the initial 0 (we list telephone numbers with the full 10 digits that you use to make local calls). To call France from the United Kingdom, dial 00-33, then dial the number in France minus any initial 0. To make a direct international call out of France, dial 00 and wait for the tone, then dial the country code (1 for the United States and Canada, 44 for the United Kingdom) and the area code (minus any initial 0) and number. Expect to be overcharged if you make calls from your hotel. Approximate daytime rates, per minute, are 5 francs to the United States and Canada (8 AM-9:30 PM), and 4 francs for the United Kingdom (2-8 PM); reduced rates at other time intervals, per minute, are 4 francs to the United States and Canada and 3 francs to the United Kingdom. AT&T, MCI, and Sprint international access codes make calling the United States relatively convenient, but you may find the local access number blocked in many hotel rooms. First ask the hotel operator to connect you. If the hotel operator balks, ask for an international operator, or dial the international operator yourself. One way to improve your odds of getting connected to your long-distance carrier is to travel with more than one company's calling card (a hotel may block Sprint, for example, but not MCI). If all else fails, call from a pay phone in the hotel lobby. Access Codes AT&T Direct (tel. 08-00-99-00-11; 800/435-0812 for other areas). MCI WorldPhone (tel. 08-00-99-00-19; 800/444-4141 for other areas). Sprint International Access (tel. 08-00-99-00-87; 800/877-4646 for other areas). LONG-DISTANCE CALLS All you need to do to call any region in France is to dial the full 10-digit number. PUBLIC PHONES Public telephone booths can almost always be found in post offices, métro stations, and in many cafés, as well as on the street. Most French pay phones are operated by cards ("télécartes"), which you can buy from post offices, tabacs, and métro stations (the cost is 40.6 francs for 50 units, 97.5 francs for 120 units). These phone cards will save you money and hassle, since it's hard to find phones that take change these days. In some cafés, however, you may still be able to find pay phones that operate with 1-, 2,- and 5-franc coins (1.5 francs for local calls). Lift the receiver, place your coin(s) in the appropriate slots, and dial. You can also use your credit card in much the same way as a télécarte but be careful, its much more expensive. When making a local call in Paris, dial the full 10-digit number, including the intial 0. A local call costs 74 centimes for every three minutes. Back to Top of Page TIPPING Bills in bars and restaurants must, by law, include service, but it is customary to round out your bill with some small change unless you're dissatisfied.The amount of this varies--from 50 centimes or 1 franc for a beer to 10 or 15 francs after a meal. In expensive restaurants, it's common to leave an additional 5% of the bill on the table. Tip taxi drivers and hairdressers about 10% of the bill. Give theater and cinema ushers a couple of francs. In some theaters and hotels, cloakroom attendants may expect nothing (watch for signs that say "Pourboire Interdit"--no tip); otherwise, give them 5 francs. Washroom attendants usually get 2 francs, though the sum is often posted. If you stay more than two or three days in a hotel, it is customary to leave something for the chambermaid--about 10 francs per day. Expect to pay about 10 francs (5 francs in a moderately priced hotel) to the person who carries your bags or who hails a taxi for you. In hotels providing room service, give 5 francs to the waiter (this does not apply if breakfast is routinely served in your room). If the chambermaid does some pressing or laundering for you, give her 5-10 francs on top of the bill. Service station attendants get nothing for gas or oil but 5 or 10 francs for checking tires. Train and airport porters get a fixed sum (6-10 francs) per bag. Museum guides should get 5-10 francs after a guided tour. It is standard practice to tip bus drivers about 10 francs after an excursion. Back to Top of Page VISITOR INFORMATION TOURIST OFFICES In Paris Office du Tourisme de la Ville de Paris (Paris Tourist Office, 127 av. des Champs-Élysées, tel. 01-49-52-53-54 or 01-49-52-53-56 for recorded information in English). At Home Contact the French Government Tourist Office's France On-Call (tel. 202/659-7779; weekdays 9-9). Offices in the United States are located in Chicago (676 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611, tel. 312/751-7800), Los Angeles (9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 715, Beverly Hills, CA 90212, tel. 310/271-6665, fax 310/276-2835), and New York City (444 Madison Ave., 16th floor, New York, NY 10022, tel. 212/838-7800). The tourist office also has locations in Canada (1981 Ave. McGill College, Suite 490, Montréal, Québec H3A 2W9, tel. 514/288-4264, fax 514/845-4868) and the United Kingdom (178 Piccadilly, London W1V OAL, tel. 020/7629-2869, fax 020/7493-6594). Back to Top of Page WHEN TO GO The major tourist season in France stretches from Easter to mid-September, but Paris has much to offer in every season. Paris in the early spring can be disappointingly damp, though it's relatively tourist free; May and June are delightful, with good weather and plenty of cultural and other attractions. July and August can be sultry. Moreover, many theaters and some of the smaller restaurants and shops close for at least four weeks in August. Those undeterred by the hot weather and the pollution will notice a fairly relaxed atmosphere around the city, as this is the month when most Parisians are on vacation. September is ideal. Cultural life revives after the summer break, and sunny weather often continues through the first half of October. The ballet and theater are in full swing in November, but the weather is part wet-and-cold, part bright-and-sunny. December is dominated by the "fêtes de fin d'année" (end-of-year festivities), and a busy theater, ballet, and opera season into January. CLIMATE What follows are average daily maximum and minimum temperatures for Paris: December-March, 34-45°F (1-7°C); March and November, 39-54°F (4-12°C); April and October, 43-60°F (6-26°C); May and September, 49-70°F (10-21°C); June-August, 55-76°F (13-25°C). FESTIVALS AND SEASONAL EVENTS Top seasonal events in Paris include the French Open Tennis Championships in May, the Fête de la Musique on June 21, July's Bastille Day, the Festival Estival musical event in summer, and the Autumn Festival from September through December. Winter Late November: Salon des Caves Particulières brings French producers to the exhibition center at Porte de Champerret for a wine-tasting jamboree. Late November-late December: The festive Christmas Market features crafts, gifts, and toys from every region of France. Pl. du 11-Novembre-1918, 10e. Métro: Gare de l'Est. Late December: Christmas in Paris is highlighted by illuminations throughout the city, particularly on the Champs-Élysées, avenue Montaigne, and boulevard Haussmann. A giant Crèche with automatons is set up outside the Hôtel de Ville (pl. de l'Hôtel-de-Ville, 4e; métro: Hôtel-de-Ville). February: Foire à la Feraille de Paris is an antiques and bric-a-brac fair held in the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes. Spring March: Salon du Livre, an international book exposition, is held annually at the end of the month. March-April: Foire du Trône, an amusement park, is set up in the Bois de Vincennes. March-April: The Prix du Président de la République takes place at the Auteuil Racecourse. Late April: The International Marathon of Paris runs through the city and large parks on the outskirts. Early May: At the Foire de Paris hundreds of booths display everything from crafts to wines. End of May: The Course des Garçons de Café is an entertaining race through the streets of Paris by waiters bearing full trays of drinks. It begins and ends at the Hôtel de Ville. May-late September: Grandes Eaux Musicales is a fountain display at the Château de Versailles (Sundays only). Late May-early June: Festival de Jazz de Boulogne-Billancourt attracts big names and varied styles of jazz in the suburbs of Boulogne-Billancourt. Late May-early June: French Open Tennis Championships take place at Roland Garros Stadium. Summer Mid-June to mid-July: Festival du Marais features everything from music to dance to theater in the churches and historic mansions of the Marais (tickets: 44 rue François-Miron, 4e, tel. 01-48-87-60-08, métro: St-Paul). A similar celebration takes place at the Butte Montmartre Festival (tel. 01-42-62-46-22). June: The Paris Air Show, which takes place in odd-numbered years only, is a display of old and new planes and an update on worldwide technological developments in the aeronautical industry, at Le Bourget Airport. Mid-June: Grand Steeplechase de Paris is a popular horse race at Auteuil Racecourse. June 21: Fête de la Musique celebrates the summer solstice with parades, street theater, and live bands throughout the city. Last weekend in June: Fête du Cinéma allows you to take in as many movies as you can for the price of a single ticket (check with the Tourist Office for details). Late June: Grand Prix de Paris, a major test for three-year-old horses, is held on the flat at Longchamp Racecourse. July 14: Bastille Day celebrates the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789. There's a military parade along the Champs-Élysées in the morning, fireworks at night at Trocadéro, and (often July 13) local firemen's balls that spill into the streets of every arrondissement. Late July: Tour de France, the world's leading bicycle race, speeds to a Sunday finish on the Champs-Élysées. Late July-late August: Fête Musique en l'Ile is a series of concerts held in the picturesque 17th-century Église St-Louis on the Ile St-Louis (tel. 01-45-23-18-25 for details). Mid-July to late September: Festival Estival features classical music concerts in churches, museums, and concert halls throughout the city (tickets: 20 rue Geoffroy-l'Asnier, 4e, tel. 01-48-04-98-01, métro: St-Paul). Autumn September: Fête à Neu-Neu, an amusement park, is set up in the Bois de Boulogne. Mid-Septembre: Salon des Beaux-Arts (odd-numbered years only) showcases some of the world's top painting dealers at Espace Branly, with works by famous artists from many different countries and periods. Mid- to late September: Biennale des Antiquaires (even-numbered years only), the world's swankiest antiques fair, takes place at the Carrousel du Louvre. Mid-September to December: Fête d'Automne is a series of concerts, plays, dances, and exhibitions throughout Paris. Tickets: 156 rue de Rivoli, 1er, tel. 01-42-96-96-94. Métro: Louvre-Rivoli. Late September: On the Journée du Patrimonie, the third Sunday in September, normally closed historic buildings--such as the state residences of the President and Prime Minister--are open to the public. Early October: Fêtes des Vendanges, held the first Saturday of October, marks the grape harvest in the Montmartre Vineyard, at the corner of rue des Saules and rue St-Vincent (and at Suresnes, just west of Paris). Early October: FIAC (International Fair of Contemporary Art) takes place on quai Branly. Early October: Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe, Europe's top flat race, takes place the first Sunday of the month at Longchamp Racecourse. October: Paris Auto Show (even-numbered years only) at the Porte de Versailles features the latest developments in the international automobile industry. Mid-October to early November: Fête de Jazz de Paris is a two-week celebration that includes lots of big-name jazz artists. Tel. 01-47-83-33-58 for information. October-November: Fête d'Art Sacré features concerts and exhibitions held in churches throughout the city. Tel. 01-42-77-92-26 for information. November 11: Armistice Day ceremonies at the Arc de Triomphe include a military parade down the Champs-Élysées. 3rd Thursday in November: Beaujolais Nouveau, that light, fruity wine from the Beaujolais region of France, is officially "released" at midnight on Wednesday; its arrival is celebrated on the third Thursday in November in true Dionysian form in cafés and restaurants around the city.